%26#39;Twas the night before Christmas, when all through the barn, not a creature was stirring, not even a mule.
The saddles were hung by the chimney with care, in hopes that mule skinners soon would be there.
The dudes were nestled all snug in their beds, while visions of the Grand Canyon danced in their heads.
It is hard to believe that our mule ride is over. After booking the trip back in February 2007 and counting down the months, then the weeks, then the days, it%26#39;s almost like it never happened.
We flew with Alaska Airlines from Anchorage to Tucson. We spent the first 3 days in Tucson visiting with family (and buying Navajo rugs in Sonoita at Nizhoni Ranch Gallery. Fantastic place with an amazing selection of incredible Navajo rugs).
Saturday - We were up early for the drive north to Cameron. We arrived at Cameron mid-afternoon and booked into the Cameron Trading Post Lodge. Instead of feasting on fry bread and Navajo tacos in the dining room by the fireplace, we settled for Trader Joe%26#39;s salads, yoghurt and dried fruit in our room. DH always has to lose a few pounds before the mule ride, and this year was no exception. When we left AK he weighed in at 192 lbs (naked !!)
Sunday - A clear and cold night welcomed a beautiful sunny (but cold) morning. We had breakfast in the room, cereal, yoghurt, fruit and tea. I stopped in at the Trading Post one more time to look at the Navajo rugs, and then we were on our way by 10am to the Grand Canyon via the east entrance.
This was our 4th time to the Grand Canyon in 4 years, and it never ceases to amaze us with its beauty and grandeur. Definitely more snow on the ground this year than in previous years. We stopped at a couple of the viewpoints along the east rim drive, but DH was eager to weigh in.
We managed to find a parking spot at El Tovar and walked down to the Bright Angel Lodge (where he changed into his ';mule weigh in'; clothes!!)
I stepped on the scale first, and to my surprise I was 7lbs lighter than last year! Then it was DH%26#39;s turn - 192lbs, the same as the previous 2 years. It sure is a load off his mind (and mine) when the weigh in is over with.
Once again, we were given the liability waiver form to read and sign, and were then handed our yellow raincoats, 2 plastic overnight bags and 2 bota bags.
We walked back to El Tovar to see if we could check in early, but unfortunately our room wasn%26#39;t ready yet. So it was off to the El Tovar dining room for a well earned lunch. DH had a salad and I had a bowl of chili. After watching our diets over the past several weeks we both walked out of there feeling ';stuffed'; and muttering to ourselves, ';why did we eat so much?';
We dumped our mule gear off at the car, and then walked down to the Kolb Studios for a guided tour of the studio/house. Emery and Ellsworth Kolb ran a photography business at the grand Canyon and the studio/house sits right on the rim - actually hangs over into the canyon, at the head of the Bright Angel Trail. They would take photos of the mule riders heading into the Canyon and would develop them in time for the riders to purchase them when they made it back up to the rim. The history of the 2 brothers is fascinating. Their business partnership dissolved during the summer of 1924. The brothers flipped a coin to see who would leave the Canyon. Emery won, and remained at the Canyon until his death in 1976 at 95.
The Park Service only operates the tours during the winter months. They are free and are well worth taking if you get the chance.
After we left the Kolb Studio we walked back to El Tovar and finally checked into our room - 2 queen beds overlooking the Hopi House. After dumping our bags we headed back outside and walked along the rim trail and then rode the shuttle bus to the market to buy a salad for dinner and some last minute supplies (apples for our mules).
Unfortunately the fireplace at El Tovar was out of commission after a chimney fire earlier in the season. Bummer. Instead we retreated to our room where we ate our salads, packed our gear for Phantom Ranch, watched the full moon rise over Hopi House, and then went to bed.
Monday - Christmas Eve - Mule day arrives !! We are both up early, showered, packed and ready to go before 7am. Weather is clear and cold about 15 degrees as we walk down to the stone corral. By 8am, the dudes, mules and mule skinners have all arrived. ';I love the smell of mules in the morning';
Pancho, calls all the riders together for our instructions. ';These mules are going into the canyon because you want to go into the canyon, they don%26#39;t want to go, they have already been there, over and over again.'; He stresses that safety is their number one concern and having a good time is number two, and they won%26#39;t sacrifice one for the other. And they key to having a good time is to keep your mule within 3 to 5 feet of the mule in front of you (a nice tight compact group), and to maintain this we are told about the ';motivators';, riding crops or whips. He explained that they will not hurt the mule, but you need to spank its butt with one good whack, rather than gentle taps - that just annoys the mule. He tells everyone to sit up straight in the saddle and listen to our guides for instructions during the ride. If we don%26#39;t, we will be walking out of the canyon !!
I look around at the rest of the riders and wonder what they are thinking, and if any of them are having second thoughts.
There are 2 groups of day riders (about 10 in each group), and we watch them mount up and head down into the canyon.
Then it was our turn. We line up in the center of the corral and are handed our motivators and introduced to our guide, Jeff. My mule is Suzie Q and DH will be riding Lucy.
There are 3 others in our group (2 women from CA and a gal from Colombia, living in Santa Fe). The other mules in our group are Boudreau, Mister and Wyatt.
Once again, I am the official US mail carrier.
We mount up, leave the stone corral and head down the Bright Angel Trail, which is covered with snow and ice. We pass by the Kolb Studio and head down through the first tunnel. About 15-20 minutes into the canyon we stop and the mules automatically turn and face towards the Canyon. What a sight - the top portion of the Canyon is snow covered, and way off in the distance on the other side of the Canyon we spot one of the groups of day riders making their way down the trail.
Jeff checks our saddles and the length of our stirrups and makes sure we are all comfortable.
We pass 1.5 and 3 mile resthouses, and the ice and snow have given way to rocks and dirt. We reach Indian Gardens around 11am.
Jeff helps us all dismount and we are given our lunch boxes. We feast on a bread roll, beff jerky, cheese sticks, peanuts, pretzels, cookies, carrots, juice and an apple.
We feed our apples to Suzie Q and Lucy.
We saddle up again, and are on our way within 30 minutes. Here the trail flattens out and skirts a creek with lots of cottonwood and willow trees, before reaching the Devils Corkscrew - the trail is steep with many sharp switchbacks, but the views of the inner canyon are spectacular.
At this time of the year, much of the Bright Angel Trail is in the shade, so we really enjoyed the times we were riding in the sunshine. At least the temperatures were getting warmer the closer we got to Phantom Ranch.
We continued down and finally caught a glimpse of the Colorado River, flowing swift and green. We pass by the silver bridge, and continue along the South Kaibab trail until we come to the black (mule) bridge.
We make our way safely through the tunnel and across the bridge and head towards Phantom Ranch. The cottonwood trees are a little past their prime, but are still a golden yellow shimmering in the sunlight. And it is about 52 degrees.
We reach the corral at Phantom Ranch. It is nice to get off and walk around and loosen up the old muscles. Much to my surprise, my knees felt okay this year, but it was funny to watch the other 3 gals take their first few steps.
Phantom Ranch in wonderful! The ranch was designed by architect Mary Colter, and completed in 1922. The 11 cabins and main lodge are built of wood and native stone. Some of the cabins have bed and some have bunks. Our cabin # 1 has a queen size bed, 2 small bedside tables, 1 uncomfortable chair (especially after sitting on a mule for 5 hours), cold water sink, toilet and an airconditioner.
The shower block was a short distance away (lots of hot water and plenty of clean towels).
We wandered around Phantom Ranch and ended up down at the Colorado River, before returning to our cabin and sitting outside drinking lemonade in the late afternoon sunshine. Once the sun had dipped below the rim, we could feel the temperature starting to drop, and it wasn%26#39;t long before we headed inside the toasty warmth of the cabin.
At 5pm, the dinner bell rang, but most of the diners were already lined up outside.
The meals are served family style - all the food is on the table and everybody helps themselves. Salad, steak, baked potato, corn, peas, carrots, corn bread, and chocolate cake for dessert. No one leaves hungry!
After dinner we headed back to our cabin.
There is another dinner bell at 6.30 for the second seating (hikers stew), and then once the staff have cleaned up, the canteen re-opens at 8pm. We headed back over there and within 10 minutes the place is full - people are drinking beer, wine, coffee, playing cards, talking, writing post cards, buying t-shirts and snacks, and just enjoying Christmas Eve at Phantom Ranch.
About an hour later we headed back to our cabin and went to bed.
Tuesday - ';Merry Christmas from Phantom Ranch';
Breakfast was at 7am - pancakes, scrambled eggs, bacon, peaches, orange juice, tea and coffee, and plenty of it.
After breakfast we walked down to the stone corral and bid goodbye to Jeff and the other riders. It%26#39;s just after 7.30 and the sun has risen, but the rays haven%26#39;t reached the bottom of the Canyon yet. We decided to take a hot shower and then hiked up the Clear Creek Trail.
The trailhead for Clear Creek, is about 1/2 mile north of Phantom Ranch - the trail climbs up several steep switchbacks where there is a great view of Phantom Ranch below.
We followed the trail around and got some great views of the Colorado River. We continued on towards Zoroaster Temple and its enormous amphitheater. We spent a few hours hiking, rock-hopping and enjoying the scenery before we decided to head back to Phantom Ranch. It was nice in the sunshine, but chilly once you stepped in the shade.
We made it back to Phantom Ranch in time to watch the mule riders arrive, and then we headed over to the mule barn and fed apples to Suzie Q and Lucy.
Suzie Q thought that she was the top mule in the barn and consequently all the apples should be given to her. Whenever Lucy or other mules would reach out for a piece of apple, Suzie would lay her ears back, and use her ample hindquarters to ';butt'; the other mules out of the way. And if that didn%26#39;t work, she would resort to kicking with her hind legs. Be nice Suzie Q, after all, it is Christmas !
We spent the rest of the afternoon split between hiking a short way up the North Kaibab trail, and relaxing in the sunshine.
Christmas dinner tonite was at 6pm. About 5.45 we wandered over to the canteen and listened to several of the hikers singing Christmas Carols by candle and torchlight.
Christmas dinner at Phantom Ranch is served a little differently than the family style for the other 364 days of the year. It is a buffet style. We were assigned a table and they would have everyone at each table go up to the buffet and be served.
There was turkey, ham, mashed potatoes, sweet potatoes, broccoli, stuffing, gravy, cranberry sauce, bread rolls and a salad. And for dessert WOW - apple pie, blueberry pie, pumpking pie, pecan pie, cheesecake and an assortment of chocolate cookies. And the wine was ';on the house'; tonite.
All I can say is ';I am sure glad they don%26#39;t weigh you for the ride out'; !!!!
We went back to the cabin, flopped on the bed, played a few games of cribbage and then went to bed, tired and content. LIFE IS GOOD.
Wednesday - We were awake by 6am, showered, dressed and packed our bags for the ride out. Breakfast was at 7am - same as yesterday, and just as delicious.
We headed to the stone corral to be reunited with Suzie Q and Lucy, and our new wrangler, Steve, who rode in yesterday.
We were on the trail around 7.45. It was clear and cold. We crossed the mule bridge and headed up the South Kaibab Trail. Steve was an excellent guide, stopping frequently along the trail, not only for the benefit of the mules, but also telling us about the Grand Canyon. When we reached Skeleton Point, Steve took photos of us ';dudes'; on the mules and then we rode over to the hitching post. This was to be the first of 2 places where we could dismount, walk around and stretch our legs. It was a gorgeous day, blue sunny skies.
Back on board again, as we climb closer to the rim. Our second stop was at Cedar Ridge (my favorite). We enjoyed the sunshine, but not the fact that the ride was coming to an end.
The views of the grand Canyon from Cedar Point are nothing short of spectacular, the red dirt, the gnarled trees silhoutted against the back drop of blue skies, and the various hues of grey, brown, red and green of the Canyon.
I want to sit and spend hours here, but Steve tell us its gime to go. The mules make their way slowly up the trail and it%26#39;s not too long before the trail is snowy and icy again. And a stiff cold wind has sprung up too.
The mules stop several more times and gaze out into the Canyon below. DH and I look at each other and without saying a word, we know our thoughts are the same. We wish the trip was just beginning and not ending.
We finally reach the chimney, up the last steep switchbacks, and then it%26#39;s a short walk to the Yaki Barn and the corral where Pancho and Casey are there to meet us.
We are given our mule skinner certificates and say one last goodbye to Suzie Q, Lucy and Steve. The mules are loaded into a trailer for the trip back to the mule barn at the village. Shortly the bus arrived to take us ';2 legged'; critters back to Bright Angel Lodge.
I always like to ask the other mule riders if they enjoyed the trip and would they consider doing it again. Most of them think it is a great experience, but not one of them has ever said they would do it again. (Except us !!)
20 minutes later we arrived back at Bright Angel Lodge where we handed in our yellow raincoats.
We both noticed the sign on the counter at the travel desk ';Mule Rides Available';.
It was lunchime, the lobby of the Bright Angel was jam packed with people, so we headed into Bright Angel restaurant for lunch. We both had the Canyon Grill - turkey, ham, crispy bacon and cheese on toasted sourdough bread. Excellent meal and excellent service.
We walked back along the rim to El Tovar and checked into our room.
Domestic chores always have to be done, even on vacation, so we grabbed our mule clothes, hopped on the shuttle bus and went to the laundry to do some washing. What a let down - this morning we were riding mules on the South Kaibab Trail in one of the wonders of the world - this afternoon, we%26#39;re doing the laundry !! What%26#39;s wrong with this picture?
We watched the changing colors on the buttes and in the canyon depths as the sun set on the Grand Canyon. We finally headed indoors not wanting the day to end.
What a GREAT trip we had !
We haven%26#39;t booked a 4th trip yet, but we are thinking about it !!
';Suzie Q, baby I love you, Oh, Suzie Q';
Giddyup
Gilbert56
Grand Canyon Mule Trip Report # 3
Wonderful post! So glad you had a wonderful time, again!
Grand Canyon Mule Trip Report # 3
Wonderful report, Gilbert! You really capture the spirit and beauty of the trip. Almost makes me want to ride a mule down instead of walking next time . . . almost, but not quite!
Do they weigh all adults, including small women who are obviously nowhere near 200 pounds? It seems like they might have to, to avoid the appearance of ';discriminating';. But I%26#39;m curious. And does anyone ever refuse?
Enzian,
Yes, they weigh EVERYONE. They need to know so they can figure out what mule to put you on. Bigger people get the bigger mules. They have 160 mules at the barn, although not all of them are ';passenger'; mules.
I am pretty sure that if you refuse to be weighed, then you don%26#39;t get to ride.
I love it when people really write details about their trips. Yours was great!!! I want to do the mule ride, it%26#39;s the only way I have not experienced the Grand Canyon. Thanks!
thank you for your fantastic post! I just managed to book the day trip for this coming May 0 i thought for sure it would be sold out, but they had an opening for my wife and I. This is our first trip to the Grand Canyon and first mule trip. Your review helped explain a few things - thanks again!
Mark
We are visiting the Grand Canyon for a week in March and were wondering if the mule ride would be available and safe for our 6 and 8 year old sons??? I%26#39;m thinking ';no';???? Any advice out there? My other concern is North or South Rim?
I appreciate anyone%26#39;s knowledgeable input!
Thanks for your reports and input!
Dear 16lucky,
I think you need to read and learn more about the Grand Canyon. The North Rim is not open in March;; there is too much snow and it does not open until mid-May.
If you don%26#39;t already have reservations you need to secure them immediately.
For the mule rides, there are no easy rides. You can check the Xanterra website for rule, but I don%26#39;t think a 6-year old can go. Even the ';short'; day ride is VERY difficult and strenuous.
One of the best tripreports I%26#39;ve read Gilbert. My compliments. Fantastic!!
Tet
Thanks everyone !
Writing a trip report lets me re-live the ride all over again.
Regarding the 6 %26amp; 8 year olds - there is a height requirement - 4%26#39; 7'; and they will be measured at check in. Personally I don%26#39;t think a 6 year old would be able to do the trip. And I doubt that there would be any mules available in March - Spring Break, and reservations need to be made months in advance.
Giddyup
